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  1. Before performing any kind of repair, make sure the SpeedTreater-TX in turned off and unplugged.
    • Before performing any kind of repair, make sure the SpeedTreater-TX in turned off and unplugged.

    • First remove the top cover of the SpeedTreater-TX. This is done by unscrewing eight (8) Philips head screws and unscrewing the two spray length adjustment knobs.

    • DO NOT unscrew the two black Philips head screws that are inside the recesses on the cover.

    • Once the screws and knobs have been removed, lift the top cover off.

  2. Again, confirm that the SpeedTreater is turned off and unplugged before working with any of the wiring.
    • Again, confirm that the SpeedTreater is turned off and unplugged before working with any of the wiring.

    • Find the spray proximity sensor wire at the point where it comes out of the black plastic wrap and cut it.

  3. Find the same wire at the terminal block side and cut it. The wire should be labeled 'SPRAY'.
    • Find the same wire at the terminal block side and cut it. The wire should be labeled 'SPRAY'.

    • You can cut it after the gray insulation ends or before; you will need to remove the blue, black, and brown wires from the the terminal block regardless.

  4. Remove the three spray proximity sensor wires from the terminal block closer to the center of the machine, away from the side wall. If the wires from the cut 'SPRAY' cable are still there, you can follow them to their correct locations on the terminal block.
    • Remove the three spray proximity sensor wires from the terminal block closer to the center of the machine, away from the side wall. If the wires from the cut 'SPRAY' cable are still there, you can follow them to their correct locations on the terminal block.

    • To do this, loosen the screws holding down the correct three (3) forks, pull the fork out from under the screw cap, and tighten the screw back up a bit, so that it does not get lost.

  5. Unscrew the sensor from the mounting plate.
    • Unscrew the sensor from the mounting plate.

    • To do this, unscrew and remove the nut and washer at the yellow end side of the sensor, then push the sensor through the mounting plate.

    • Cut the wire ties holding the sensor wire to the solenoid power wires.

    • You can begin removing the plastic cable wrap at this point.

  6. The black plastic cable wrap is removed by simply pulling one end up and unwrapping it from the hose and leftover sensor wire.
    • The black plastic cable wrap is removed by simply pulling one end up and unwrapping it from the hose and leftover sensor wire.

  7. Now that the old sensor and cable wrap has been fully removed, mount the new sensor.
    • Now that the old sensor and cable wrap has been fully removed, mount the new sensor.

    • The new sensor should be mounted in the same way that the old one was. A nut and crush washer keeps the sensor pressed against the mount plate on both side. Wire tie the sensor wire to the white solenoid wires if available.

    • DO NOT over-bend the sensor cable. Keep a loose loop between the end of the sensor and the point where the black plastic cable wrap used to start.

    • The sensor has to be mounted in about the same location as the old one, as the distance between the yellow end of the sensor and the rear spray adjustment flag as the be 2-4 mm.

    • Slide the rear flag in front of the sensor, and adjust the two nuts on either side of the mounting plate in order to close or open the gap. The distance should be between 2-4 mm. In order to test, with the flag in front of the sensor, plug the machine in and turn it on. The back end of the sensor should light up yellow if the distance is correct.

  8. The new mesh wrap has a seam, in order to facilitate wrapping. Open the seam at one end and wrap the sensor cable, the hose, and the solenoid power wires, trying to keep the sensor wire on top of the hose.
    • The new mesh wrap has a seam, in order to facilitate wrapping. Open the seam at one end and wrap the sensor cable, the hose, and the solenoid power wires, trying to keep the sensor wire on top of the hose.

    • Use three wire ties to lock the mesh into place. One wire tie at each end should be somewhat tight, and one in the center should be left loose, enough to just keep the seam closed.

  9. Use the old sensor cable as a brace for the new one. Wire tie the cable at a few points to the old one, so that it runs along the walls of the machine to the terminal block.
    • Use the old sensor cable as a brace for the new one. Wire tie the cable at a few points to the old one, so that it runs along the walls of the machine to the terminal block.

    • Try not to over-tighten the ties or put too much tension on the cable.

  10. Screw the new forks into the same locations on the terminal block. Use this picture as a reference.
    • Screw the new forks into the same locations on the terminal block. Use this picture as a reference.

  11. Before putting the top cover back on, test that the new sensor works.
    • Before putting the top cover back on, test that the new sensor works.

    • Turn the machine on, move the rear spray adjustment flag in front of the new sensor and confirm that the cable side of the sensor lights up.

    • Move the rear flag back to its normal location, and test the machine. Close the drawer all the way, and push the green Start button to initiate the homing procedure. The spray sensor assembly should move forward until it sees the End sensor at the front, and then move back to the Home sensor at the back.

    • Make sure that the end of the sensor did not contact either flag during this procedure.

    • Place a shirt on the drawer, close it, and press Start to test the spraying procedure. If the pump turns on when the sensor sees the rear flag, turns off when it passes the front flag, and reverses direction when it sees the End sensor at the front, then everything is wired and positioned correctly.

    • Put the top cover back on and screw it into place. Screw the two spray adjustment knobs back on.

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Member since: 06/05/2012

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